Written By: Ken HulseyOne of my fondest memories from living in New Mexico was exploring the stunning Jemez Mountains. The area was ideal for summer motorcycle rides, hiking adventures, and camping trips. The region is dotted with captivating geological wonders like the Soda Dam (and its picturesque waterfall), the Sulphur Hot Springs, and the towering Battleship Rock. The natural beauty of this place is not only visually breathtaking, but also has a profound, almost spiritual, quality to it. Here are some must-visit spots if you find yourself in the Jemez area.
Jemez Hot Springs
The Hot Springs in Jemez Springs are well worth the hike, even though they're off the main highway. Imagine the wonder of soaking in a natural hot sulphur spring, with an amazing, unobstructed view of the Jemez Mountains and surrounding forest spread out before you. Back in the day, the springs were a popular spot for skinny dipping - on one of my excursions, my friends and I happened upon a young woman swimming nude in one of the springs. I think we were more embarrassed than she was; people just weren't as self-conscious back then.
As the name implies, the Jemez Springs area is abundant in natural hot springs. Primitive hot springs like Spence Hot Springs near Soda Dam and McCauley Hot Springs near Battleship Rock offer a delightful reward for hikers, with beautiful waterfalls and soothing waters. For a more controlled, clean environment, the commercial hot springs, spas and bath houses in Jemez Springs provide top-notch facilities at reasonable prices, whether you're looking to soak under the stars or indulge in an herbal wrap or massage.
Just keep in mind that the primitive hot springs on public land are for day-use only, from sunrise to sunset. Overnight camping is prohibited, and there are no facilities - just beautiful natural springs. Bathing suits are required, and littering and fires are strictly off-limits. These springs are administered by the US Forest Service, whose local headquarters are at the north end of the Village of Jemez Springs, just south of Soda Dam.
Battleship Rock is an awe-inspiring geological formation that towers 200 feet above the Jemez River Valley below. One of my most exhilarating memories of Battleship Rock was the time I mustered the courage to climb out to the end of the rocks and straddle the final one, despite my fear of heights. Looking down at the river from such a dizzying vantage point was thrilling, though the experience did little to cure my phobia.
Located just six miles north of Jemez Springs, Battleship Rock was formed over 5 million years ago from volcanic eruptions. The dramatic structure earned its name by jutting from the mountainside like the prow of a ship. A few miles past Battleship Rock, visitors can find the relaxing Spence Hot Springs, where the East Fork Jemez and San Antonio Rivers converge at a 33-site picnic area.
Jemez Falls
One morning, my friends and I stumbled upon the magnificent Jemez Falls, a stunning waterfall nestled in the Jemez Mountains of the Santa Fe National Forest. The falls are located on the East Fork of the Jemez River, which flows through a landscape dominated by towering Ponderosa Pine forests. At 70 feet tall, Jemez Falls is the highest waterfall in the Jemez range. Just above the main falls, there are several smaller cascades along the river.
Visitors can access the falls via a trail that originates at the Jemez Falls Campground and day-use area, which sits at an elevation of 7,880 feet. An overlook at the end of the trail provides a breathtaking view of the falls. Campers should come prepared for warm days and cooler nights, as the high-altitude climate can fluctuate.
The East Fork of the Jemez River runs adjacent to the campground, offering excellent fishing and whitewater kayaking opportunities. Many tourists consider Jemez Falls to be one of the most awe-inspiring natural wonders in New Mexico, especially when the snowmelt creates a heavy, powerful flow that twists and cascades at the bottom.
Gilman Tunnels
One of my favorite destinations when visiting the Jemez Mountains was driving through the Gilman Tunnels. These narrow passageways carved into the rock were always a bit daunting to traverse, as they were just wide enough for a single vehicle. I often worried about another car or truck approaching from the opposite direction. As you drove through, you couldn't resist honking the horn to hear the sound echo within.
The Gilman Tunnels are located on NM 485 along the Rio Guadalupe in the southwestern Jemez Mountains, about 5 miles northwest of the NM 4 and NM 485 intersection. These two unusually tall and narrow tunnels were cut through Precambrian granite in the 1920s to facilitate the passage of logging trains through the rugged and constricted Guadalupe Canyon, known as the Guadalupe Box. In the 1920s, logs harvested in the western Jemez were transported by narrow-gauge railroad to a sawmill in Bernalillo. The tunnels were later enlarged in the 1930s to accommodate logging trucks, which hauled timber from the mountains to the Gilman logging camp established in 1937, about two miles south of the tunnels. The railroad was shut down in 1941 due to flooding along the Jemez and Guadalupe Rivers, and the highway now occupies the old rail bed. In addition to providing access to the Guadalupe Box, NM 485 offers unparalleled views of the canyon's geology.
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